Editor's note
At present, the century changes and the century epidemic situation are interwoven and superimposed, and the global instability and uncertainty have increased significantly. The textile industry is still in the stage of deep adjustment and transformation. It is necessary to base on the new goal of China's modernization development and the new pattern of dual cycle development with domestic large cycle as the main body, and take the "14th five year plan" as a new starting point to adapt to the new situation and realize new development.
Internal circulation is becoming an economic hot word. The tide of the times is surging, and "economic internal circulation" is an important strategic choice to deal with the current international and domestic situation. Farewell to the extensive development of the single export-oriented economy, solid internal training, will also become an important opportunity for China's textile and clothing industry to move towards high-quality development.
A wise man is not confused, but a brave man is fearless《 Textile and clothing weekly "Textile internal circulation in progress" series report column This paper analyzes the opportunities and challenges in the "internal circulation" and refines the new development trend of the industry.
The series of reports will invite upstream and downstream enterprises in the industrial chain, such as fiber, fabric, clothing and home textile, as well as industry experts, leaders, distributors, designers, etc., to promote the textile and clothing industry to accelerate the construction of a new development pattern with domestic large cycle as the main body and domestic and international dual cycle promoting each other.
Does the textile and garment industry have a great impact on carbon emissions? What is the carbon emission of a garment?
Recently, the "carbon footprint assessment of Xinjiang cotton printed T-shirt life cycle" jointly conducted by China Textile Industry Federation and several enterprises revealed the answer: A Xinjiang cotton printed T-shirt, from cotton planting, picking, ginning, spinning into yarn, weaving into grey cloth, dyeing, and finally cutting and sewing into clothes, releases 1.15-1.72 kg (according to different color process) equivalent carbon dioxide to the atmosphere before reaching consumers. Previously, the Chalmers Institute of technology in Gothenburg, Sweden, had released data that a polyester dress would release nearly 17 kg of carbon dioxide equivalent. Because chemical fiber clothing comes from fossil fuel, the energy consumption in the production process is much higher than that of natural fiber.
Some people may not care about this figure. Indeed, compared with electricity, gas and other industries, textile is not a high carbon emission industry. However, concerning the common destiny of mankind, the power of gathering sand into a tower cannot be ignored. McKinsey estimates that an average of 23 kilograms of greenhouse gases are emitted per kilogram of textiles produced. At present, the total amount of greenhouse gas emissions related to textile production is about 1.2 billion tons, accounting for 4% of the total global emissions. It is estimated that by 2030, the number of global clothing and footwear will increase by 80%, and the related greenhouse gas emissions will reach 2.7 billion tons per year. According to a report by the Allen MacArthur Foundation, the share of global carbon emissions in the fashion industry will rise to 26% in 2050.
In the critical period of global fashion industry emission reduction, China's strength is very important. On the one hand, China is the world's largest textile and clothing producer and exporter. In 2018, China's total fiber processing accounted for 50% of the global total fiber processing, and the textile and clothing export accounted for 35% of the global total export. On the other hand, China is also one of the largest textile and clothing consumer markets in the world.
just as Sun Ruizhe, President of China Textile Industry Federation It is said that promoting carbon peaking and carbon neutralization is the inherent requirement for China to achieve sustainable development and high-quality development in the new development stage, and it is also an inevitable choice to promote the construction of a community with a shared future for mankind. The green and low-carbon transformation of the industry is related to the foundation and foundation of industrial security, and determines the details and stamina of industrial development. Whether Chinese fashion and made in China can gain greater respect on the basis of being welcomed by global consumers depends on whether they can become an important contributor to global climate action and a major leader in global sustainable production and consumption.
01 China's textile industry takes the lead
"Carbon peak" and "carbon neutralization" are the world's century test, and China's textile and garment industry is in the forefront. In 2017, China Textile Industry Federation launched carbon management innovation 2020 action, which is one of the first industries in China to propose carbon neutral target. In 2019, as a Contracting Party, CFA signed the UN climate action charter for fashion industry to participate in Global Climate Governance of fashion industry; And upgrade carbon management innovation 2020 action to climate innovation 2030 action. A number of industry leading enterprises and 100 billion level industrial clusters have announced their participation in the operation, with 50000 Industrial people participating. On June 1, this year, the launch of China's brand carbon neutral acceleration action and taipingbird's first Xinjiang cotton carbon footprint T-shirt & Carbon neutralization vision conference is the deepening and continuation of this work.
In this regard, Ou Limin, Chief Strategic Officer of Pacific bird Fashion Co., Ltd "The establishment of the carbon peak and carbon neutral targets has made us realize that this will have a significant impact on the whole industry," he said. This year, the 25th anniversary of the founding of taipingbird fashion apparel, as the leading brand in the field of fashion apparel, we have the obligation to voice to the whole industry and the whole society, and actively guide the emission reduction action. " "The brand will continue to do a good job in carbon footprint certification, and at the same time, it is studying the strategic blueprint to achieve the vision of achieving net zero emission in the whole value chain by 2046 and carbon neutralization within the scope of brand operation by 2035 through changes in products and raw materials," he said
Taipingniao also tried to introduce information traceability, that is, each T-shirt has a tag with a QR code, and the carbon footprint information can be viewed in real time through scanning“ Taipingniao visualizes the carbon footprint data in the form of product labels to convey the signal that consumers should pay attention to carbon emissions. At the same time, consumers can clearly know the carbon footprint of this product and decide whether to buy it or not. This is of positive significance for enhancing the external understanding of Xinjiang cotton and promoting low-carbon and responsible consumption. " Said o'limin.
02 Carbon Footprint Assessment of the whole industrial chain contribution
Some industry insiders predict that carbon peaking and carbon neutralization will restructure the entire manufacturing industry. Because if we want to achieve carbon neutrality, it is not only the retail enterprises of end products to achieve carbon neutrality, but also every link in the industrial chain should make corresponding changes. However, the textile industry chain is quite long, from fiber, yarn, fabric, printing and dyeing, to sewing, and so on. This is why only 55% of the top 200 brands in the global fashion industry publish their annual carbon footprint, and only 19.5% choose to disclose the carbon emission of the supply chain.
However, the carbon footprint assessment of taipingniao Xinjiang cotton T-shirt is a good start for Chinese fashion brands to accelerate carbon neutralization. As a matter of fact, since May, taipingbird group has been working with the responsible office of China Textile Association. With the collaborative efforts of the supply chain partners Huafu Fashion Co., Ltd., Zhejiang Jiaming dyeing and finishing Co., Ltd. and Anhui Cuisheng Garment Co., Ltd., with the first-hand and complete measured data, the environmental footprint calculation model from Xinjiang cotton field to ready-made clothing has been established, This is the first carbon footprint product of Xinjiang cotton measured data in the world.
The evaluation results show not only the product itself, but also the coordination of the industrial chain, and the traceability of the real data of the whole supply chain, involving the clothing industry, printing and dyeing industry, textile industry and even agriculture, breaking through the embarrassing stage of global textile carbon footprint measurement staying at the simulation value stage. In addition, the calculated data boundary not only includes the input and emission of the product itself, but also takes into account the production environment and transportation links of the product. The calculation scope is wider, and the requirements for the carbon management capacity of suppliers in each link are very high.
Taking Huafu fashion, which provides raw material data, as an example, the enterprise is an important part of the carbon footprint certification of Xinjiang cotton T-shirt, and the data provided are all real-life surveys. The data of cotton planting, picking and ginning in Xinjiang come from Huafu cotton field and ginning plant, while the original data of spinning process comes from Huafu spinning factory.
Under the tough battle, chain to chain competition
Carbon neutralization in the whole industrial chain is a game of chess, which can only be coordinated, not alone. This also means that terminal enterprises should re-examine their own supply chain in order to jointly achieve a more green future. The carbon footprint provided by upstream enterprises may be just the beginning. The regeneration of raw materials, energy saving and emission reduction of processes, and chemical management will be important assessment indicators. just as Sun Weiting, chairman of Huafu Fashion Co., Ltd It is said that "the future competition is not the competition between enterprises in a certain industrial link, but the competition between industrial chains."
Regarding the cooperation with Huafu, orimin said:“ everything Huafu is one of the few spinning bases, from cotton planting, processing and trading to dyeing and spinning; As a pioneer of environmental protection in the industry, the company advocates green environmental protection in the whole process from raw materials, production to consumption, and the whole industrial chain. It has done a lot of practice in the use of raw materials, carbon emissions, chemical management, water management, circular economy, etc., and has been committed to promoting the sustainable development of the industry. This coincides with us. We choose suppliers. First, we value the combination of strong and strong, Second, it is I hope we have a common mission and vision. "
It is reported that since 2012, Huafu fashion has calculated the carbon emissions of key factories every year and released carbon emission reports. In the past ten years, the continuous growth of energy efficiency and the reduction of carbon emissions have been achieved through the technical transformation of reclaimed water reuse, led factory lighting transformation and ultra-high efficiency motor renovation. Huafu has been focusing on color spinning is an environmental protection product. Compared with the traditional process, dyeing and spinning process can save water and reduce emission by more than 50%. Over the past 28 years, the company has achieved a total sales of more than 1.9 million tons of color spun yarn and 97.5 million tons of water-saving and emission reduction. In recent two years, the company has also made efforts in recycling economy, developed recycled cotton products, and carried out the plan of replacing original polyester with recycled polyester. Sun Weiting, chairman of Huafu Fashion Co., Ltd., said that from the very beginning, Huafu was determined to "not only be a capable enterprise, but also a good enterprise".
It will take about 60 years for the EU, 45 years for the US and 30 years for China to achieve the goal from the peak of carbon emissions to carbon neutrality. This is a tough battle, and every industry and everyone should contribute to it.
