The Development History Of Casual Clothes

Sacrificial clothing for sacrifice.

They are used for official meetings, for public service. These dresses are all formal dresses.

The dress relative to the dress is called casual clothes. It is the clothes worn by ordinary officials and ordinary people.

Casual wear is also known as "

"

"Han Ling Li Ling biography": "after the fall, Li Ling plain clothes alone mountain camp."

"Song History and public service aspiration": "outside the North Korean chapter, there should be plain clothes."

The "plain clothes" here are all relative dress.

This is what we call public security officers who do not wear uniform today.

In ancient times, people used to retire to their homes and called them "swallow houses", so they also called casual clothes "swallow clothes".

"Book of Songs Zhou Nan Ge Qin" has a saying: "thin dirty my private, thin Huan my clothes."

Han Mao Heng notes: "private and swallow clothes are also.

The woman has a pair of Dun, decorated with Chao's aunt, who met in the ancestral temple and came to see the gentleman, while the rest were private.

"The swallow suit" here.

It refers to the plain clothes of noble women.

Similar to the meaning of Yanfu, there were ancient clothes called "wild clothes" in ancient times, such as Song Dynasty Wang Jinzhi, "sending Buddhist monks to Shu".

The "wild clothes" here usually refer to civilian clothes, which is the clothes of the wild. The daily life of the ordinary people is different from that of the wild, so there is no need to call it so.

Of course, there are also farmers and fishermen called "savages", "wild men" clothes, sometimes called "wild clothes", but the meaning of the former is not the same.

Since casual clothes are household clothes, they are much more restrained by the system than their dresses. As the saying goes, "only one hundred years of constant ceremony will break the custom of ten years without change." the sacrificial dress, Royal costume and public uniform are the products of ritual system. The materials, colors, styles and decorations have unified provisions, and the changes will affect the whole country, so the change is not great.

Casual clothes are different from this. They are people's household clothes, which are basically not subject to the restriction of ritual, so they are varied and changeable.

The main reason for these changes is the change of social customs.

Before the appearance of deep clothing, people's clothes were made up of two parts. They were made up of jackets and clothes.

The appearance of deep clothing has provided a new form of clothing for people.

But it wasn't used as a dress, but in casual clothes.

Because of its simple shape and suitable body shape, it gradually evolved into a dress.

In the course of the evolution of the deep garment, it has gone through so many stages: first, the use of Qu; when people's underwear is perfected, it develops into a straight line; later, from the straight skirt development to the robe and the robe, the robe and the Concord are parallel to one stage, and then replace the Dun.

The robe is a long coat. It is usually made of two layers. It is originally used as underwear. It must be added when worn.

。

The book of rites and mourning: "the robe must have a watch".

In the Han Dynasty, people could wear them alone when they were at home. They did not need to put on their overalls, just to make them look good and enhance their fastness.

With the development of the times, the style of the robe has been changing and the decoration is more exquisite. In the Eastern Han Dynasty, it has become the necessary dress for brides to get married.

Because it became a dress, there are rules for colors and decorations.

For example, "after Han Shu", "Princess", "noble", "above", marry, take the brocade, the twelve colors, the heavy robes.

The twelve colors of the above brocade are introduced.

Six hundred more than stone training, nine colors, forbidden purple purple tongs, three hundred stones above five colors, green Huang Hong green.

Two hundred stones above four, green, yellow, red and green.

The people of Jia are very beautiful.

The "Jia people" were businessmen, and the Han Dynasty carried out the policy of emphasizing agriculture and restraining commerce, so it was stipulated that the daughters of the business families should get married and only wear two gowns of light yellow and light blue.

From underwear to underwear

At the time of popularity, because of the fact that the tunic is not available, it is not easy to use the curl, so it tends to be more inclined to the style in the style. For a long time, the gown and the robe are fused into one body and become a kind of dress.

After the robe was replaced, the use became more extensive.

From the emperor, the lower and the hundred palace, the ceremony can be worn in the morning.

There are records in this book, "the book of Han Dynasty and public service": "the emperor," he often wears clothes, clothes, and robes, with five colors.

Nowadays, the lower officials are all dressed in robes, single garments, and the leader of the soap border is the dress of the court.

"After the Wei and Jin Dynasties, the wind became more and more popular. According to the book of the old Tang Dynasty, the emperors of the Sui Dynasty used to take Huang Wenling's robe, the black hat, the nine belt and the Liuhe boots.

A hundred officials often wear a yellow robe in the same place as a common man. They enter the palace Province, and the emperors' costumes are like them. They only take the thirteen rings as the difference and cover them with their own affairs.

"Official uniform is also made of robes and discriminating between gowns.

Although the robe is used as a dress, the common people can still wear it, but the material is inferior.

The names of "gowns", "Ma robes" and "cloth robes" often appear in historical records, most of which refer to the robes worn by the people.

In the Han Dynasty, clothes called "Robe" had basically such characteristics:

First, the intersection of the two lapses is vertical and downward.

Second, the texture is relatively thick, and sometimes there are spots.

Third, the sleeves are broad and circular, and the cuffs are obviously convergent for activities.

In the Han and Wei dynasties, a new garment appeared in the society, which was exactly the opposite of the robe.

The robe is mainly made up of lapel, which is mainly made of straight breasted. The robes are mostly made of double layers, and it is made up of a single layer. The sleeves of the robes are circular and vertical, and the sleeves of the robes are narrow and the cuffs are very spacious. This garment is called "sweater".

Because the collar is used, the shirt is more convenient to use than the robe. Especially in summer, the shirt collar can be tied together with the strap, and it can not be tied to the ribbon, so that it can be opened naturally.

In the Wei and Jin Dynasties, this kind of T-shirt was loved by men, and they could be worn by men and women, especially by scholars.

Quot, the bamboo grove of the bamboo grove of the seven sages and the Rong Qi period in Nanjing, Jiangsu, depicted 8 scholars, all wearing T-shirts, and some showing their bosom.

In the northern and Southern Dynasties, because of the influence of Hu clothing, the number of men and women wearing clothes was decreasing, and it became popular again in the Southern Song Dynasty.

The name of the shirt worn by scholars during the Tang and Song Dynasties was "

".

Usually made of fine cloth, collar, sleeves, skirts, skirts and skirts are on the edge. The lower part of the shirt is near the knee part, often with a horizontal bar.

It is said that this horizontal bar is added by Ma Zhou's recommendation in Tang Zhong Shu. He thought that there was no record of shirts in ancient etiquette books. In order to show respect for ancient rites, he added such a horizontal cross to show his ancestral system under the coat.

New book of Tang Dynasty: "Zhong Shu Lu Ma Zhou:" "etiquette" does not have the clothes to wear clothes, and the three generation has deep clothing.

Please add the sleeves, the sleeves, the clothes and the sunrise to serve the scholars.

Song Dynasty scholars still used this suit.

"Song History and public service records": "T-shirt, with white fine cloth, round collar big sleeves, under the application of Heng Bi for the waist, there is a product.

Jinshi and Guo Zi Sheng and Zhou county.

"This kind of sweater has been excavated in a tomb of a scholar in Jintan, southern Jiangsu.

In the Tang and Song Dynasties, the blouses worn by the people are different from those of the scholars. They usually do short, short, knee - long, and open a pair of shorts on or on both sides of the Department in order to make it convenient.

Because of its name, it is commonly known as "lack of the shirt".

In addition to men, women wearing sweaters are also common, and the famous women in the famous Tang painting "hairpin ladies picture" are dressed in thin and pparent sweaters. Song Huizong's "palace words" also depict this kind of light shirt, such as: "the daughter's dressing effect is male, the steep narrow sweater is called the jade muscle."

"In the women's tombs of the Song Dynasty in Fuzhou, Fujian and de Jiangxi, there was also a physical excavation of this large sleeved sweater.

Because the sleeves are so spacious, the Song Dynasty simply called this "big sleeves".

But this time the big sleeves have been used as women's dresses.

In the Song Dynasty, Wu Zi Mu recorded the customs of Ling'an (today's Hangzhou) in the Southern Song Dynasty. Before the men and women got married, the men had to pay the bride's gifts to the ladies' families, and the family of the rich and the rich should have three gold medals, namely the golden bracelet, the golden bracelet and the golden pendant.

The shirt is originally a single layer, so it is also known as "single shirt". Later, the number of people who used it increased gradually, and its use was more extensive. So there was a lined quot, a jacket, but it didn't mix between the two layers. The ancient cold clothing was only made of cotton robe and cotton padded jacket, but never heard of any "cotton jersey".

Modern fashion designers lack proper knowledge of traditional clothing knowledge, so they often make jokes when naming new designs.

The most typical example is the winter coat with duck or cotton, which is called "ski shirt" and "down jacket". Strictly speaking, these names are not appropriate.

From a single layer to a double layer, the time of wearing is extended. In addition to this change, the shirt of Tang and Song Dynasty is not limited to the collar, but also has the big collar and round collar, and the style is closer to the robe.

In the yuan and Ming Dynasties, men wore household robes for their daily lives. According to the different shapes of their gowns, there were various names, including straight, Taoist robes, drag (clothes + loose), skirts, etc.

"Straight" is also "straight". As early as the Song Dynasty, it has appeared. It is usually made of plain cloth, with big sleeves on the top and black edges around the edges of clothes.

Such as song Zhao Yanwei, "cloud Lu diffuse banknotes" said: "the ancient clothes, that is, today's monks and monks walkers.

Su Zhe's "answer hole, Ping Zhong Hui Hui Bu Shi": "even more, the two banana seams are straight, and all of them are regarded as Taoist people." from the poems of Su Zhe, we can see that at that time, scholars also wore straight clothes, but in the eyes of the world, this kind of clothing was still the service of the monks.

In the yuan and Ming Dynasties, the shapes of straight lines were varied. They were usually made of gauze, silk, silk and ramie fabrics. The big ones were crossed and the knees were longer.

It's mostly for men.

In the twenty-second chapter of the scholars, "suddenly I saw the two gentlemen wearing a scarf on the stairs: one in front wore a piece of cocoon silk, a piece of oil on the front, and one on the back wore a yuan color straight, and the two sleeves cracked and moved up.

"It's this kind of clothing.

Taoist robes were originally used to release Taoism. Yuan Ming period was widely used in scholars.

It is also made of silks and satin. When they are single, clipped, velvet, and cotton, they usually use big, cross, wide sleeves and long knees.

Feng Menglong, "Xing Shi Heng Lu, Lu Wu Han hard shoes": "(Zhang Jin) dressed up, wearing a crepe scarf, dressed.

。

"Ancient and modern novels, Chen Yushi skillfully collate the Golden Lotus": "a visitor who sells cloth, wears a new filial scarf on his head and wears an old white cloth Taoist Robe".

Drag (clothing + loose) "withdrawal" is also a dress such as robe.

It is usually made of gauze robe and big sleeves and long sleeves. The shape of the garment is different from the front to the back. The latter is made into a whole piece. The former is divided into two parts: the waist is the same as the back piece; the following is folded with thin pleats, and the pleat is on both sides, leaving gaps in the middle.

Ming Wang Shi Zhen "Bu Bu Lu Lu" said: "clothes interrupted, under the horizontal fold, and the next vertical fold, if the sleeves are dragged.

That's the kind of clothing.

Yuan Ming was used mostly as a casual wear.

It is said that there was a government official named Kou Tianxu in Nanjing who was very dissatisfied with the skillfully taking advantage of the imperial dignitaries at that time.

Even if the powerful Jiang Bin sent for money, he pretended not to know it and pretended to be confused.

Until the poor officials entered the imperial court, Kou Tian Xu rose up and sighed, "the people of Nanjing are too poor, the warehouses are empty, there is no money, otherwise, how can I wear this" little clothes "to sit in the office? There are two meanings of" small clothes ": one is casual clothes, different from the" coat "worn at the ceremony, the other refers to people's underwear and shorts.

Now, some literary and historical reference books, when interpreting the "shisha" clothing, are often referred to as underwear according to Kou Tianxu's "little clothes", and think that he wears only a pair of shorts to sit on the hall. Actually, that is a misunderstanding. Kou Tian Xu wears "one remove", that is, "drag and scatter". It is a plainclothes for men and men.

Pleats are also commonly used casual clothes for men in Ming Dynasty.

It should be either crossed or used with round collar, wide sleeves and long knees.

The waist below is covered with a thin pleat, like a skirt, and can be worn without distinction, especially by officials and scholars.

Mingming's name "Tianshui iceberg" records that there are 3 pieces of green and silky pleat, including 3 green folds, 2 green wrinkles, 4 Blue gauze pleats and 4 Blue wrinkles.

In the 79 chapter of "Jin Ping Mei CI Hua", when Ximen Qing went out, he wore "purple cashmere pleat, surrounded by wind collar and riding on the horse," reflecting the Customs at that time.

To this day, the name of traditional opera costumes is still preserved, usually used in Xiao Sheng, but there are some changes in shape.

These casual clothes are long gowns. Ancient men and women wear their shorts in addition to wearing long gowns.

It is the most commonly used short coat.

The book of rites and internal rules: ten years ago, the boy was "out of the house" and lived in the same place.

"Xu Shen" Shuo Wen Bu Bu ": he also wears short clothes.

"Before the Eastern Han Dynasty, both men and women played the role. After the Eastern Han Dynasty, they were mainly used for women. They could be used as shirts and worn out.

The system has the length and the single clip. The elderly are not below the knee, but the short ones only reach the waist. Sometimes they can also be included in the quilt, that is, the predecessor of the cotton padded jacket.

In the Han and Wei dynasties, they usually used big skirts and skirts to cover the right side, while sleeves had two kinds.

In the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the patterns of the patterns changed. Apart from the big skirts, they used more pairs of skirts. When they wore them, they wore their skirts open, without buttons, and the lower part was in the skirt.

Sleeves are mainly narrow sleeves. Most of the sleeves are between wrist and wrist.

After the Tang Dynasty, it was used as a casual dress for women in song, yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties.

Until the middle of the Qing Dynasty, because of the popularity of coat, its system became more and more popular.

Jacket is a short coat that evolved from the clothes. It is mostly made up of the human body's crotch. It is made of fabric of thick texture, with big sleeves and narrow sleeves and lined with linings, so it is also called "sandwich coat".

If we use cotton wool in it, we call it "cotton padded jacket".

This is a common winter coat for men and women.

Bai Juyi's "new made silk jacket" and "chanting" poem: "the water wave jacket is made new, and the satin soft is uniform and warm and light".

After the Song Dynasty, the emergence of the coat became popular in the Wei, Jin and southern and Northern Dynasties, and became the main casual dress of the literati and women in the Qing Dynasty.

To match up.

There are many narratives in a dream of Red Mansions.

For example, the 24 time: "Baoyu sits on the edge of the bed, fades his shoes, and waits for his boots to wear."

In the late Qing Dynasty, there was a variation in the shape of the coat. Besides the short coat, there was a long coat and a long knee.

The women in the Republic of China were influenced by the "curve beauty" of the western world. In order to embody the graceful posture, they restored the length of the jacket to the position above the crotch.

Although the jacket is a short coat, it has long sleeves. It also has short sleeves in ancient men's and women's casual wear.

Embroidered skirt, popular in the Han and Wei dynasties, is a short sleeved garment.

It is made of big collar, hand over, wide cuff and decorated with beautiful edge.

Because the sleeves of short sleeved sleeves are half the length of long sleeves, the short sleeved clothes are called "half sleeves" in Han and Wei Dynasty. Wei Mingdi's casual clothes worn by Yang Fu Shi are "lengthways and half sleeves".

In Tang and Song Dynasties, half sleeves were called "half arms".

During the Tianbao years, Anlushan was deeply enlisted by the emperor of Xuanzong, and was named Fan Yang Jie Jie, who was in charge of the military and political power in Beijing today.

In order to comfort Yang's "son", Tang Xuanzong often gave him all kinds of clothing, including half arms.

The half sleeves of the half arms and sleeves are usually on the upper arm. There is also a short sleeved garment in the Tang Dynasty. The short sleeves can only cover the shoulders, do not open the front and back skirts, and cover the neck by the neck.

This dress is called "clothes + crotch". The heroine Cui Xiaoyu in the Tang Dynasty novel "biography of Huo Xiaoyu" usually wears this (clothes + crotch) crotch.

A shorter coat than a garment (crotch + crotch), that is a vest.

Vest, also known as "crotch", "back" and "tied", originally used as a lining, is a kind of underwear. Wei Jin later began to be worn out and covered with other garments.

Later, there were also directly dressed in vests, which were not lined with clothes.

Of course, this situation is only suitable for summer.

According to records, the peddlers in the streets in the Song Dynasty used to wear such vests in summer.

We can also see these people wearing vests from the Song Dynasty custom scroll "Qingming Shanghe".

In the Qing Dynasty, the vest was also called the "waistcoat". Besides the monolayer, there were also sandwiched, silk and leather.

"The dream of Red Mansions" wrote Daiyu clothing nineteenth times: "wearing moon embroidered flowers."

Plus the "silver mouse's shoulder", that is to say.

In the Qing Dynasty, the most distinctive feature of the waistcoat in the Qing Dynasty is a waistcoat called "baturu's shoulder". It is usually made of thick material, which is made of heavy material, or is covered with leather. The system is made of two pieces of chest and back, but it is not waist length. It is neither straight nor open, but it is opened in front of the chest, with 7 buttons on the top. About two buttons are also made up of 3 grains, each of which is made up of 13 grains.

"Batu Lu" is the Manchu "warrior" meaning.

If you feel hot, you can open your hands from the collar and remove the buttons without taking off your coat.

Later, the vest spread to the public and was popular with people, regardless of men and women, and from underwear to outer garment.

"Qing stele banknote clothing": "the capital is popular in Batu Lu. Every member of the Department sees the palace, often with a tassel cap."

The south is called the "waistcoat of a single character". For example, the skin must be lined up in the robe, and it will feel warm. That is to detect the hand and solve the upper buttons, so that the servant can solve the buttons on both sides and drag them out.

After the single clip cotton yarn will be popular.

"There are still such objects in the museums and collectors in the north and south.