Li Jianhua: Thousands Of Years Of History And Culture Of Chinese Traditional Silk

China National Garment Association was held at the Convention Center of Beijing International Hotel from November 23-24, 2012“ 2012 China Fashion Conference ”。 The following is a speech by Li Jianhua, President of Hangzhou Massley Group.

Li Jianhua: Good afternoon, friends. The first two talked a lot from the perspective of clothing, which was very good and let me learn a lot. Now I would like to report our transformation and upgrading to you from another perspective on what the Chinese traditional silk culture has been like for thousands of years.

As you know, silk is a kind of fabric. With the development of our industrial economy, the whole fabric has undergone rapid changes. So we are thinking about what silk can do besides making clothes. 30 years ago, our silk was the main fabric, but today we don't wear it. There are 30 enterprises in Hangzhou, 99% of which do not exist, and now there are 30 enterprises in China. Especially in some areas where silk is developing, Hangzhou, what happened to our silk. So we have been founded since 75 years ago. In the 37 years, our company still sticks to silk. If we stick to traditional silk, it will not be the same today. So what do we do? Our leaders of all generations have shown great concern for silk. Our founder is also a deputy to the two NPC's, and we have been one of the top 500 private enterprises in China for nine years. President Jiang's inscription has been very helpful, including Secretary Xi Jinping, who is also very interested in our silk. They are not interested in silk clothing It is the culture of silk.

I remember clearly that in 2006, when I visited the company with Secretary Xi, we had two hours of communication. He then asked what would happen to Hangzhou if it had no silk, and what would happen to China if it had no silk? I said that if Hangzhou had no West Lake, people would come to Hangzhou if there was no West Lake? Hangzhou would not be so beautiful without silk. Our West Lake is so beautiful, like an 18 year old girl, but our silk in Hangzhou is like a 60 year old lady, and nobody likes it. This is a question that we silk people must think about. Therefore, Chinese silk should be given a new connotation. This is our report on Secretary Xi's participation in China's 2008 Olympic Games. The Olympic Games has a plan for Chinese silk. Secretary Xi gave the Olympic Games a platform to show silk. This is Zhang Dejiang's visit to us. So we are thinking about what silk is. In fact, in our Chinese market, there are three elements that are unique to China. The first is Chinese characters, silk, and ceramics. These three things, like ceramics, and some, like Egypt, are unique to China, but there is no doubt that Chinese characters and silk are unique to China. The origin of Chinese characters is oracle bone inscriptions [microblog]. We found that there are 200 characters related to silk, which was very important 2800 years ago. In oracle bone inscriptions, there are days, places, people, things, and silk accounts for 35%. So many of our things have something to do with silk. This is why I called them president when I gave lectures to Harvard University in the United States. They always pay attention to Chinese characters. They pay attention to the fact that Chinese men will tie their hair with silk when they are 18 years old. So the seal characters show a person who ties his hair together. This shows a group of people, Turn it into a group of people, so the word "President" means to turn an unorganized thing into an orderly thing, which is the charm of our Chinese characters. For example, the word "gei" is added beside the word "gei", because in ancient China, people used silk to tie things up. The seat of the seat is an ancient chair wrapped in silk to show respect for guests. The main seat is the chairman, wrapped in silk. So many characters are very extensive in our daily life in China, which is a very unique part between Chinese characters. We have also ordered a book called Making Silk, which means that there are many kinds of Chinese characters. Absolutely, why hang next to me. Is the colored silk beautiful? The absolute absolute absolute means that the color is expressed. A person holds a knife and puts the silk in two sections, which is called absolute absolute. I have a book called Making Silk. Our Chinese characters are inseparable from silk. {page_break}

Second, I want to talk to you about the traditional Chinese dragon. What is the dragon? In fact, a dragon is a dragon when it goes up to the sky, and a silkworm when it goes down to the earth. So the silkworm is called Tianchong. Tianchong is a kind of bones and muscles that heaven and earth give us in the world, called silkworm. It comes from the mouth and is the origin of the Chinese nation. When we talk about agricultural agriculture, there are silkworms in it. What does it mean? The above song is a pen for sericulture, and the next worm is a sign of agriculture. In ancient times, we talked about farming civilization. Farming is farmland, rice and cotton, so the most important things in farming culture are these two things. The origin of silkworm is the origin of agriculture. The emperor wants to clear up the land, and the queen wants to clear up the mulberry, which means that the silkworm industry has developed. So silk is indispensable in Chinese traditional culture.

How did the four great inventions come about? It also has something to do with silk. Tell us about it. Paper making, in ancient times, was near the hanging. In 1000 BC, paper cutting. In fact, Cai Lun only changed silk tissue paper into plant fiber. So why is this paper not wood, but silk for writing, called paper. I have a special TV film called Silk and the Four Great Inventions of China, so in our word interpretation, paper is the short fiber of silk. The second printing technique, in fact, is the earliest one since Cai Lun invented paper in front of us. The silk prints found in Mawangdui have a history of one thousand years. In fact, the movable type printing we will talk about later is just to print the technology of printing on fiber paper, so the printing of silk is earlier than movable type printing. So today's movable type printing evolved from silk.

The compass, we said that there was Sinan before Shen Kuo invented the compass. At first, it was not made of silk. But why is it that the invention of the compass has something to do with silk? It is thin. In the seal script, it is a hanging. It is a scissors that draws a piece of silk and the smallest thing. So today we are going to talk about why our compass is related to silk. If we didn't have the finest silk to adjust it, it would still be on the mouth of the bowl. It could not have been widely used in war. Therefore, it is impossible to use the silk without it being mixed in the bowl. Can you use cotton, hemp, cotton It was only after the Song Dynasty that we spread from Southeast Asia to China. At the earliest time, hemp could not be made as fine as silk. There is no other fiber finer than silk except silk. So you can have a look in the museum. When the compass was invented, the silk was still silk.

Fourth, gunpowder. What does gunpowder have to do with silk? Gunpowder is the gunpowder invented by our alchemy technology. The alchemy technology was unsuccessful in ancient times, but they painted the alchemy technology and process on silk. Because there was no paper at that time, there was no way to record the process of the gunpowder's alchemy, so after the Song Dynasty, This is our Song Dynasty people invented gunpowder according to the alchemy technology on our silk flowers. Then I think the relationship between the four great inventions and silk highlights the position and role of silk in our Chinese civilization. It is not a simple fiber and fabric. So the origin of China's four great inventions in ancient times is that silk is inextricably linked. It can be said that silk has made indelible contributions to China's history. {page_break}

Silk is the earliest commodity. If you look at this coin, how did it come from? The coin of this currency is silk, which is a special silk. According to our statistics, silk was the earliest currency pair, so in fact it was the earliest currency pair. Before the Warring States Period, in 1600 BC, silk was used for silk trade. In the later period, if you don't use silk and don't accept silk as a currency, it is a crime. There are many records in it, but today we won't talk about it in detail. There is no doubt that silk is our currency transaction. It has been clearly stated.

So when it came to the Sui Dynasty, it was still true that silk was not used as currency silk. After the Ming Dynasty, silk was not used very much. It was always used in the front. So when we came to the Tang Dynasty, we saw that copper coins and cloth were both used as currency. Fifth, silk is a precious symbol. Whether we talk about history, the emperor's culture, Chinese culture, or the world's culture, royal culture is a very important thread in our country. In our royal culture, we see that the emperor wears dragon robes, sleeps, mosquito nets, and hats, all of which are made of silk. This silk must be indispensable in the royal culture. Today I will mainly talk about the Dragon Robe. The emperor's dragon robe is a very classic expression of our Chinese clothing culture. Why is it called Dragon Robe? The dragon is a dragon in the sky and a silkworm in the earth. The dragon is huge when it goes up in the sky and small when it goes down to the earth. Why does the dragon robe mean that the emperor must have the capacity to be flexible, big and small. There are many cultures in the Dragon Robe. On the left is an axe. If you want to be a good emperor, you must be resolute like an axe. On the right is a public character. The emperor must be fair. There are two monkeys on the lower right foot of the dragon robe. As the emperor, we cannot forget our ancestors. We are monkeys. In fact, our Chinese clothes are cultural clothes, and we have learned a lot, but what is the connotation of our Chinese clothes? What kind of cultural connotation should our Chinese clothing contain to make the world recognize that it is Chinese clothing. I think this is something that we clothing people can think about.

Last year, I communicated with the Foreign Minister of our country. He said that he would visit Japan with the main leaders of the country, and they would visit the Emperor. Japan reported that our emperor today was wearing a kimono, and he suggested that Chinese leaders also wear Chinese clothes. Our diplomats said through half a month's efforts that China did not have a kimono, but went there in a suit. I want to tell my own experience. In fact, our Chinese culture is extensive and profound. But because our clothing people are copying the West, we should consider what we can do, so our Chinese clothing can absorb some nutrition. Today when I came to make a speech, I also flipped over the clothes with Chinese elements, which also told us that Chinese clothing people can think about this problem together.

This is the royal family of the Chinese people. Look at the royal family of the Western people. The bed he sleeps in, including the pillow, is basically the same as that of our Chinese royal family. So it is wrong to say that today's Chinese people do not have luxury goods, and it has never been more wrong. We were luxury goods in Europe 2000 years ago, otherwise we would have traveled 7000 or 8000 kilometers to Europe, Why is the price still used when the price has doubled several times? Because silk is the luxury of Chinese people, the best fabric and the best clothing in China. I believe that the reason why China's Silk Road can last for thousands of years is very important. Let's talk about the Silk Road as we all know. There are two Silk Roads in China. One is the Land Silk Road, and the other is the Maritime Silk Road. Zhang Qian went to the Western Regions as an envoy. Before 1850, it was called the Commercial Road. By 1850, German geographers changed the name to the Silk Road. Before that, it was not for transporting silk. Tea was transported to Europe, and Europe was transported to China, 50% of China's trade is traded on this road. In the eyes of Europeans, silk is not only a commodity, but also represents China. So when silk is changed into the Silk Road, it represents the Chinese nation. So what do Chinese people have? There are silk and Chinese characters, both of which come down in one continuous line with Chinese culture. There was a very shocking sentence in the report of the 18th National Congress of the Communist Party of China. The competitiveness and creativity of culture are the strength of a strong country, the strength of creation, and the strength of Chinese national culture is the strength of our country's prosperity. So where is the strength of our Chinese nation? I think silk is a force. Our current Chinese people do not necessarily understand that we silk people want to spread this culture. We have published six books about Chinese silk culture, and hope that our generation will not forget our silk culture. When we study western civilization, our local culture is extensive and profound. {page_break}

In addition, silk also has a function of cultural value. In the 1980s, clothes were made of silk fabrics, and silk was an export commodity. In fact, silk was not only in China, but also in Japan after World War II. Silk was an initial stage. It made a lot of silk products and revitalized the economy. So today, we talk about silk. Therefore, it plays a very important role in at least five thousand years of Chinese culture and is the cultural treasure of the Chinese nation. When we Chinese people go abroad, we all wear a silk scarf to give to our guests, saying that it is something unique to us Chinese people, but no one said that we should get a chemical fiber fabric for others. I think that around this context, everything is leading a new Silk Road.

Silk is used by the emperor and the rich, so silk must be made into high-end fabrics, which cannot be worn by ordinary people. So we will follow big brands and their high-end products, and we will return to the noble quality of silk. It is a luxury, which can not be compared with cotton and hemp. It is a living fabric, which can breathe and maintain skin. So we will build a high-end garment. The most high-end fabric must be made of silk, which is the same in the world and the future of China.

Silk, as a cultural product, is a gift. As we said just now, we made APEC clothes in 2010, and Jiang Zemin and other comrades wore them, which represents China's history and culture. Because we are presenting Chinese culture, national costume and silk to the world. This is the award dress of the Asian Games and the Olympic Games, blue and white porcelain and Chinese red, including the belt of this medal. It is the first time that China has used silk to mix it up, which represents China. When I told the leaders, we said that Chinese people must have silk. Later, they were persuaded by me to make a medal belt out of silk. They also made silk Fuwa and Chinese ties. At the lower left corner, the Chinese government invited all the invitations to China to participate in the Olympic Games, all of which were made of silk. The awarding dress, medal belt, invitation card, tie and fan we saw earlier are all expressed in silk. Therefore, only silk can be used to express the Olympic Games, which is our own Olympic Games. This sentence has been highly valued by the national leaders.

This is a special book that we made. It is made of silk. It expresses the stone carving technology of 150 countries participating in the World Expo with silk books. This book was sent to 150 heads of state through the Secretary General of the United Nations [microblog]. This is the first book in human history. So the price of this book is very high now. Collectors have printed a total of 500 copies, The United Nations printed 150 copies. If the book is made of paper and can't be sent to the head of state, it can be made of silk, which is the pride of our silk.

This is the Asian Games. Every athlete in the Asian Games has a Zen when he comes on the stage, so we use this as a silkworm for volunteers, and we make the opening ceremony of the Asian Games very grand and warm, because of this silkworm. The following scene is not beautiful without it. It is very beautiful at the Asian Games. For example, we have used a lot of this concept in the Universiade and the Urban Games. For example, if we hold this forum and hold a conference today, it may be plain to listen to me. If everyone has something on hand, it will be very warm. {page_break}

We can do a lot of schools. On the centennial of Tsinghua University, the tie that the standing committee members in front of Tsinghua University wear is designed for the logo of Tsinghua University. All the alumni of Tsinghua University come back and we make blue and white silkworm, one is the concept of crystal flower, the other is the concept of ink Tsinghua. This is a 100 meter long scroll for Tsinghua University. Because Tsinghua University was formerly the place where our imperial emperors were studying and picking silkworms, we persuaded us that Tsinghua University could use the concept of silk for its centennial. This is a chronology certificate for 100 pairs of newcomers to Tsinghua University. This is a Tang costume for 137 presidents who attended Tsinghua University's anniversary. In fact, we have done a lot for Tsinghua University's 100th anniversary, so I was invited to the Tsinghua University conference. Tsinghua University did not use the concept of Tsinghua itself when celebrating the 100th anniversary of Tsinghua University, but our concept of doing everything for the benefit of all, because we do more in this field. Therefore, when we communicated with President Gu, the concept of silk was reasonable.

What I want to express is that silk is a carrier, which can carry culture and many things in China. The culture that carries enterprises is enterprise, and the culture that carries countries is national. This is the product we made for Nanjing University, helping them make a cultural product. So if you want to make cultural products now, it is a very important expression to make silk. We are making some products with the government. This is our silk book, which is translated into Chinese and English. It is also a gift for George W. Bush, a product for Alibaba [Weibo], and a cartoon of the founder of Jack Ma [Weibo]. It is also their culture. This is what we did for China Merchants. We Li Hongzhang wrote a memorial to Empress Dowager Cixi and wanted to present it. We gave it to China Merchants. So silk is a cultural product. This is a book written by Ping An Group, expressed in silk, and this is CCTV. So we are now in the cultural industry, the world's top 500 and China's top 500 are our customers, and become the expression of their enterprises.

Third, we make silk into a new material from fabric. As we mentioned earlier, we should advocate a new silk lifestyle. This is the hall we made for the Great Hall of the People. Last month, the Shanghai Cooperation Organization held a meeting in the Great Hall of the People. We gave a new interpretation of the Great Hall of the People with the concept of blue and white porcelain. First of all, Miss Etiquette. The stool, clothes and chopsticks are all made of silk. There are many expressions on the table. This is our expression of blue and white porcelain. This is our own club in Hangzhou, which is also expressed in silk. This is a hotel in our Beijing office, with silk sofa, silk stool and silk carpet. We hope that silk is a very important decorative material for luxury goods in China. This is our Hangzhou East Railway Station. You can see this pillar when you get off the railway station in Hangzhou. We have all performed our interpretation with silk. The glass partitions on both sides are made of silk. We use silk embroidery, the Four Great Ming Embroidery, to enter Hangzhou is to enter silk, so silk is a decorative material, it is an expression. This is the most upscale reception room in Hangzhou. Its walls are handmade with Song brocade.

So silk is Chinese. We are committed to moving the world silk center to China. Silk itself is our Chinese thing. We hope that silk can go home. This is an activity of our alumni association. You may look funny. There is Shi Yuzhu [microblog]. We want to express a concept that Chinese clothing should be expressed when it comes to returning. So we also hope that our Chinese clothing can be expressed in the world.

This is our spread of silk culture, so I want to say so much at the end. I want to express a layer of meaning that silk is a unique material and cultural symbol of our Chinese people. So our generation, our silk people, especially our clothing people, should not forget it. But the materials of our silk also need to be innovated and created. But there is no way to compare silk with chemical fiber fabrics and hemp fabrics. Let me tell you two words: Embroidery, the brocade of the splendid China, Hu Jintao's brocade, the silk in white color, and the silk in painting and writing, which means two layers. Our cloud brocade also means the most expensive thing. If the silk in Chinese characters is changed into cotton, the gap between silk and cotton is the gap between gold and wood. Silk and cotton are different things, which is gold, It is wood. Therefore, we should re understand and re interpret silk, and the Chinese people should work hard for it. Thank you.